Opus 59

Vanilla, rose absolute, jasmine, neroli, yuzu... .

The Scent of Music

This summer, the Litchfield Hills will be alive with the sound--and the scent--of music.

Music Mountain, located in Falls Village, Connecticut, which is in the upper northwestern portion of Litchfield County, is the nation's oldest, ongoing summer chamber music festival. A photo of Gordon Hall, the concert hall, is above. Music Mountain is a magical place that combines world-class music with accoutrements from Mother Nature. Outstanding professional musicians from around the globe travel to tiny Falls Village to play at the summer concerts. If you haven't been to a Music Mountain concert--promise yourself that you'll attend at least one this coming summer. It continues to amaze me that this cultural gem is in my own backyard, and has been for 80 years.

As a member of Music Mountain's board, my contribution to this year's 80th season will be a signature fragrance. I plan to use Dr. Septimus Piesse's Octave of Odors to create the anniversary scent. Dr. Piesse was a French chemist and famous perfumer who lived in the 19th century. He created a unique way to blend perfume by matching scents to musical notes. For example, middle C on Dr. Piesse's octave corresponds with the scent of rose. The music note "F" in the treble clef corresponds to the scent of tuberose, and G, according to Dr. Piesse's Octave of Odors, represents orange blossom.

There are so many methods and inspirations that artisan perfumers can use to create a fragrance. Working with Dr. Piesse's scale will be a first--and a challenge--for me. Those 10 years of piano lessons as a kid will undoubtedly pay off; it helps tremendously to have some musical knowledge (note that I did not say ability) to blend a scent based on the Piesse method.

It will be an enchanting anniversary season up on the mountain; however, winter, which has had its way with us these past few months, has to finish running its course. In the meantime, here's a little something to help you through its last leg.

The joy of discovery

It was recently reported that a team of archaeologists uncovered perfumes and ointments that were used during the lifetime of Jesus Christ. The group was digging in the Biblical town of Magdala, now called Migdal, which has prompted the leading archaeologist on the project to hypothesize that the perfumes may have been the same ones used by Mary Magdalene to anoint the feet of Jesus a few days before his crucifixion.

The perfumes and ointments are currently undergoing chemical analyses, and it will be interesting to see what that reveals. It is thought that the oil which Mary Magdalene used to anoint Jesus' feet was Spikenard or "Nard." There are a few references to Spikenard in the Bible. One is found in the authorized King James Version: St. John 12:3.

Spikenard's scent is a combination of earthy and green. It's a little bit sweet, too. Its scientific name is Nardostachys jatamansi. The aromatic oil is obtained by steam distilling the plant's roots and rhizome.

The Dark Scents

The time is dark. It is a period in history that I never thought I would live to see, but as I write this post—my first since last February—there is a pervasive malaise throughout the entire world. We are unsure of what to expect next. People are losing their homes, their jobs or businesses, their personal rights—and many continue to lose their very life as they fight for us in faraway places in the name of freedom.

It is not my intent to espouse any particular political viewpoint in a perfume blog; I am merely referencing the times in which we live.

This darkness that enfolds us—even during daylight hours—reminds me of a discussion launched by one of my professors when I was studying at seminary. While horrible things happen in the dead of night, darkness can also yield to happiness. I think it does us good, during times like these, to remember this.

As we journey together through this very long night in our lives, it is my hope that we will all remember the good things that happen in the dark: Lovers come together, babies are born, prayers are delivered to the Creator, stars shine beautifully against a velvet backdrop, and our bodies rest and renew.

(Also, a beautiful, black homeless cat, who came up to Connecticut on the Wheels of Hope transport van from the Mayor’s Alliance of NYC, now lives with me. Cats are nocturnal, and so Audrey plays happily in her new home with her new toys--all night.)

Last year, I was asked if I would be interested in delivering a lecture on “The Dark Scents.” At the time, it didn’t seem like something that would fit into my schedule. Lately, however, I have been thinking a lot about the “dark scents” that are used in my artisan perfumes. These are the heavy, natural extracts such as patchouli, oud, labdanum, and oak moss, for example. On their own, they are not always so loved; however, add a drop or two to a happy blend—such as one featuring pink grapefruit, yuzu or bergamot—and the perfume takes on more depth and breadth. It becomes more interesting and develops a personality. Dark scents offer you an “experience,” not a clean-smelling mask. They’re real, exotic and animalic. One perfumer even describes wearing dark scents as akin to having a tail hanging out from beneath your dress.

These darker scents are typically used as base notes in perfumery. Think of them as accent notes—like a teaspoon of vanilla extract is to chocolate chip cookie dough. Although vanilla is not a dark scent, hopefully you understand the analogy: A little bit of a dark scent goes a long way in a perfume blend.

I will write more about the dark scents in the very near future and examine many of them, individually, in detail in this blog. Yes, I am back to blogging. I promise.

Oh, and I have decided to revisit the invitation to lecture on dark scents. Attendees will be able to experience, firsthand, some of the darkest, most exotic scents on the face of the earth. As soon as the date is pinned down, I will be sure to let you know. The lecture will take place in Litchfield County, in Torrington.

In the meantime, I will leave you with this thought: If the dark—whether it be dark scents, the dark of night or those dark periods of our lives—causes us to slow down, scares us a little and shakes us to our core, is that really so bad? At least for me, it is during the dark times when I realize what is most important in my life. I wish the same for each of you.

As I end this post on a cold, dark night, one of my favorite songs—referencing my favorite scent—comes to mind. As we now enter into the holiday season, I hope you will recognize that even during the bleakest of times: Lo! how a rose e’re blooming.

The fragrance of rose becomes ever more beautiful when graced with the dark scent of patchouli.

Awesome attributes of natural perfumes

Those who are unfamiliar with natural, artisan perfumes usually want to know what's so special about them. In fact, I am always asked this question whenever I do a media interview.

What's so interesting to me, however, is that my answer has never appeared in any of the numerous articles that have been written about Bailey McMillan Artisan Perfumes. It seems as if my honesty embarrasses journalists.

As a writer myself, I find it somewhat troubling that in their stories other writers skip over the inspiration behind my perfumes--especially when they've asked why I like to create them.

So I decided to take matters into my own hands and attempt to explain this passion of mine.

It's actually very straightforward. The ingredients used in my perfumes come solely from parts of plants such as flowers, roots, leaves, stems, seeds, and bark--and also from resins found in trees. Because of my love for animals, I do not work with honey, ambergris (whale vomit) or musk oil (which is, thankfully, illegal now in most countries).

Of course, the thing that I love about a natural, artisan perfume is its fragrance. Natural scents, extracted from plants in nature, are pure and honest. They are true, and those who know me know that I've always been a seeker of the truth.

You know that pretty rose scent you smell at the department store perfume counter? I hate to break it to you, but it's fake. It came from a test tube in some scientific laboratory.

A real rose, like the natural rose essential oils, absolutes and concretes that I use in my perfume creations, is more complicated than its "test tube baby" counterpart. The type of rose, and the area of the world from which it comes, will determine its aromatic characteristics. But no matter whether the rose is French, Indian, Egyptian, Morrocan, Bulgarian, or Russian--a real rose will always have more depth than a synthetic.

Typically, the "real" rose will not be so sickenly sweet as that which is synthetically created.

So there is the fragrance of true plant materials that I find alluring.

But even more than that, there's this: The aromas that compose natural perfumes are created by a Creator, not a creator. And to me, that is the most precious part about working as a natural, artisan perfumer. When I blend a beautiful perfume with natural scents, I view the process as both an homage to and a gift from my Creator.

There is never a time that I am not in awe of God and His creation, and this is especially so when I'm working with His fragrant materials.

Is it really the holidays? Already? Really?

Oh my goodness. It's December. When did that happen? The only decorating I've done so far for the holidays is to install my annual Christmas wreaths on the front door and put a pot of red poinsettias on my fireplace mantle. This year's wreath photo is bleary; the digital cam is acting up because it's so cold here in Litchfield County. Truly, it's more like mid-winter than autumn.

Although my intentions are good, I'm really not sure if I'll get the tree up. It's still sitting in Bill's warehouse, in pieces, stashed away in an old truck he has stored in there.

I did manage to wrangle the tree decorations down from the top shelf of a closet--just in case they're needed. While going through boxes of ornaments, I stumbled upon Cecily's tiny Christmas stocking that I used to hang on the fireplace and fill with catnip mice. If there is room, I will likely store it in the memory box which contains her ashes.

After 17 years, this is the first Christmas without my kitty. As many of you know, she passed away July 25. I'm not getting over losing her, but I am getting through it OK. Those of you who are true animal lovers will understand. Those who aren't, won't.

Last summer, I created a special perfume in memory of Cecily and presented it to certain friends who played an important role in her life. The scent proved extremely popular, and many who received a bottle are asking for refills. I decided to offer this scent during the holidays, and 50 percent of the sales from each bottle of Cecily perfume sold now through December 31 will be donated to a Connecticut cat orphanage.

Cecily, the perfume, is a floral-citrus which features magnolia absolute and yuzu. It's quiet, elegant--and unforgettable.

Clear and Refreshing Cypress

We've had a quintessential autumn weekend here in Northwest Connecticut. There was a distinct chill in the air, which served as a warning to New Englanders not to get too used to the unseasonably warm weather that visited our doorstep earlier in the week.

While the leaves won't peak with brilliant jewel-like colors until later this month, the natural beauty of the region's landscape still offers many surprises both natural and man made. It's so very true that there are many treasures right in one's own backyard--as my friend Jennifer and three of her four girls and I discovered yesterday when we set out to explore Litchfield County through the lens of gentler times and a genteel life in a bucolic setting.

Our afternoon at Topsmead State Forest started with a picnic lunch, although we were so cold we couldn't even taste our food! But we really didn't mind; we knew that we were in a special place and that a lovely afternoon was in store. Topsmead, which means "top of the meadow," is like a visit to the 19th century English Cotswolds. The 511-acre estate, with its gently rolling hills and picturesque Tudor-style cottage, was bequeathed to the State of Connecticut for its people's enjoyment by Miss Edith Morton Chase, a woman of considerable wealth and breeding who was born into a prominent Waterbury, Connecticut family. (Her father was the president of Chase Brass Company.)

Although I have lived in Litchfield County for almost six years, yesterday was my first visit to Topsmead (and it is literally 15 minutes from my home).

Topsmead is unlike any of Connecticut's other state parks in that there is an intimate feel about the place. The four acres immediately surrounding the 3,000-square foot summer home that Miss Chase built are maintained as a formal area. And although there are woods to hike in, Jenn, the girls and I stuck to strolling through the peaceful meadows with their wide, manicured paths.

As we walked in the area designated as the butterfly garden, it was obvious that not all of the butterflies had left yet for their migratory trip down south. It was a delightful walk, and the girls seemed to have a great time running alongside the flying Monarchs, doing cartwheels on the pathways and pointing out the presence of Red-Tailed hawks and Swallows flying above us.

After our walk, we returned to the mansion to take a tour. Originally built as a small cabin in 1917, Miss Chase expanded the structure into a Tudor-style mansion/cottage/home (the tour guide used all three terms yesterday) with the help of a prominent architect some six years later. The house itself was simple and elegant. Most of its furnishings were created in England in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.

But it was really the outside of the house that caught my eye. The exterior is crafted of stucco and brick--and the wood is cypress! I have attached a photo.

Let me tell you a little of what I know about essential oil of cypress. Its scent is clear and refreshing--and it's also a bit spice-like and very woodsy. It's the perfect oil to describe yesterday's autumn outing in fragrant terms.

Cypress tress are tall evergreens that have small flowers and round, brownish cones. The essential oil is extracted from the tree's leaves and cones by the method of distillation. Cypress scent blends particularly well with lavender, grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, and pine.

In my work as an artisan perfumer I sometimes use essential oil of cypress when I am creating scents for men.